On Holding AG (NYSE: ONON)

Sector: Consumer Cyclical Industry: Footwear & Accessories CIK: 0001858985
Market Cap 1.36 Bn
P/E 42.65
P/S 0.37
Div. Yield 0.00
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About

On Holding AG, a Swiss company with the ticker symbol ONON, is a premier brand in the sportswear industry that has transformed the running experience by enabling individuals to run on clouds. Since its inception in 2010, On has been at the forefront of delivering innovative footwear, apparel, and accessories designed for high-performance running, outdoor, training, all-day activities, and tennis. With a presence in over 60 countries, On is recognized as one of the fastest-growing scaled athletic sports companies globally. On's primary business...

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Investment thesis

Bull case

  • On's recent results demonstrate that the company has exceeded its own 3‑year growth targets, posting a 33% constant currency net sales increase in 2024. The brand has successfully leveraged its premium positioning to command higher price points, reflected in a 60.6% gross profit margin that exceeds the 60% midpoint of its strategic goal. This margin strength indicates that the company can absorb modest cost inflation while still delivering attractive profitability to shareholders. Furthermore, the expansion of its direct‑to‑consumer channel has already translated into a record 48.8% share of sales, reducing reliance on wholesale partners and improving margin quality.
  • The company has effectively broadened its product mix beyond running shoes to include tennis, training and apparel, with apparel sales surpassing CHF 100 million for the first time. This diversification offers a dual benefit: it taps into the high‑margin head‑to‑toe apparel market and mitigates the cyclical volatility of the footwear segment. The strategy is underpinned by strong retail evidence; in high‑end flagship stores the apparel mix exceeds 20% of transactions, indicating robust consumer acceptance of the full‑line proposition. As the company scales its online commerce engine, it will be able to further cross‑sell apparel to its established sneaker customer base, amplifying incremental revenue.
  • On has secured a series of high‑profile brand ambassadors that resonate with younger audiences, such as Zendaya and FKA twigs, while maintaining long‑term ties to Roger Federer. These collaborations create cultural relevance that extends beyond sports, positioning the brand at the intersection of performance and lifestyle. The effect is visible in a doubling of Gen‑Z awareness in the United States, which is a demographic known for high brand loyalty and willingness to pay premium prices. This cultural cachet is a significant intangible that is not fully captured in financial statements but enhances future growth prospects.
  • The company’s strategic retail rollout has proven to be a powerful halo effect in key markets. The introduction of flagship stores in Paris, Milan, and Chicago has directly correlated with increased online traffic and sales volume, demonstrating a strong omnichannel synergy. Additionally, the company’s entry into emerging markets through both owned and franchised stores—such as Santiago de Chile and Jakarta—provides early mover advantage in regions with rising disposable income. This geographic diversification will cushion the business against localized economic downturns.
  • On’s investment in a fully automated warehouse in Atlanta is a forward‑looking catalyst that will reduce fulfillment lead times and lower per‑unit logistics costs as volume scales. While the transition period may impose short‑term costs, the long‑term savings are projected to free up capital for marketing and product innovation. Automation also enhances order accuracy, improving customer satisfaction and repeat purchase rates. The strategic focus on operational excellence aligns with the company’s overall margin expansion plan, targeting an adjusted EBITDA margin of 17%–17.5% in 2025.

Bear case

  • The company’s reliance on a high‑price premium model introduces significant pricing risk, especially in a consumer environment where discretionary spending is volatile. As economic conditions tighten, even affluent consumers may shorten their discretionary budgets, forcing the brand to confront a potential price elasticity that could erode margins. The management’s emphasis on premium positioning may not translate into sustained sales growth if competitors introduce lower‑priced alternatives with comparable performance. This pricing vulnerability is not fully reflected in the current valuation and warrants caution.
  • On’s operational execution faces notable supply chain challenges that were highlighted in the Q&A, particularly disruptions in North America and delayed automation at its Atlanta warehouse. These operational hiccups have already impacted delivery timelines and potentially diluted the brand’s promised customer experience. While management expressed optimism about resolving these issues, the associated costs and reputational damage could persist longer than anticipated, reducing net operating income. The risk of repeated supply chain disruptions remains elevated given the company’s rapid expansion into new markets.
  • The expansion of the retail footprint, while a strategic growth driver, introduces significant capital expenditures and operational complexity. The company has increased its retail space to over 10,000 square meters, a move that requires sustained capital outlay for lease, construction, and store operations. If the incremental sales volume does not match expectations, the return on investment could be lower than projected, putting pressure on profitability. Moreover, the retail model is inherently sensitive to macroeconomic swings and changes in consumer shopping behavior.
  • The company’s heavy marketing spend—currently around 11%–12% of sales—exerts downward pressure on net income. While upper‑funnel investment is critical for brand building, the diminishing marginal returns on marketing spend could result in an over‑exposure to advertising costs relative to incremental revenue. This is especially concerning in a saturated sportswear market where competitive spend is also increasing. Management’s commitment to maintaining high marketing spend may limit flexibility in adjusting to market dynamics.
  • On’s focus on high‑margin product categories such as Cloud and Light Spray leaves it vulnerable to shifts in consumer preferences. If running shoes or lightweight training footwear lose favor to newer innovations from competitors, the company could experience a loss of market share in its core segments. The brand’s heavy dependence on these categories means that a slowdown in demand could disproportionately affect top line growth. Diversifying the product mix further is a strategic priority, but the execution of such a shift carries inherent risk.

Classes of share capital [axis] Breakdown of Revenue (2025)

Products and services [axis] Breakdown of Revenue (2025)

Peer comparison

Companies in the Footwear & Accessories
S.No. Ticker Company Market Cap P/E P/S Total Debt (Qtr)
1 NKE NIKE, Inc. 75.88 Bn 29.82 1.63 8.02 Bn
2 DECK Deckers Outdoor Corp 13.69 Bn 13.38 2.55 -
3 BIRK Birkenstock Holding plc 7.42 Bn 15.57 3.03 1.34 Bn
4 CROX Crocs, Inc. 4.34 Bn -58.37 1.07 1.23 Bn
5 SHOO Steven Madden, Ltd. 2.31 Bn 51.76 0.91 0.23 Bn
6 WWW Wolverine World Wide Inc /De/ 1.81 Bn 13.66 0.97 0.55 Bn
7 ONON On Holding AG 1.36 Bn 42.65 0.37 -
8 WEYS Weyco Group Inc 0.30 Bn 12.99 1.09 -